Husqvarna TE 150i 2020 review

Coming up – what I think of the Husqvarna TE 150i

I’ve done 50 hours riding the Husqvarna TE 150i over the last two months, including enduro and trail riding, a little motocross and technical hard enduro in a range of conditions.

In a nutshell this is a highly capable machine, it’s light, agile and ready to give you confidence in a heap of conditions. So let’s go into the details.

Capacity

First thing that comes to mind is people’s reactions towards it ‘only’ being a 150…. Now this is a very important part for me, just because it’s small it certainly doesn’t mean it’s not capable, exciting and fast. Modern fuel injection engines offer such huge advancements in technology that the classic ‘size’ chat is becoming something of the past in many ways.

The Husqvarna TE 150i is an incredibly smooth engine and with a 54.5 mm stroke, the crankshaft is perfectly balanced to reduce vibrations making it a non-fatiguing bike to ride. If you’re looking for enduro or MX it’s a punchy machine with plenty of acceleration [note for MX you’re best on a TC or FC].

You do need to calibrate to the 150i because for technical riding keeping the bike in the powerband means you really have to ride it, you’ll be shifting through the gear box and keeping it in the power band more than on a larger bike. But being able to really work the machine is a fantastic skill development and doesn’t lose you time. A small negative when we think about the advantages of it being such a small machine.

Size and Weight

Husqvarna have worked incredibly hard on this new generation of bikes to get the weight down and the 150i weighs in at just 99.6kg pre fuel. That’s only 50% heavier than me! It’s also a very narrow machine all over including the tank and seat, boosting that small feeling.

With such a streamline lightweight bike you’re going to find the power goes considerably further, you’re carrying less around for a start. But this also gives a massive confidence boost. It’s more like a mountain bike, you feel able to throw it around, leaning it over to find traction, manoeuvre it without using so much energy, and tackle obstacles with less worry about the pick up when / if you drop it.

Alongside this, is it’s incredible low seat height at just 96cm. I’m 172cm and can easily get ground contact on either side. Another great confidence booster.

Light, lean and low.

One of the key areas I suspect this weight has been lost is in the frame. Husky have created an injection moulded fibre reinforced plastic subframe, moving away from the more traditional aluminium subframe.

Quality

Lots of little things shine with the Husqvarna in terms of its beautiful build quality. For example, the simplicity of having some of the torque value settings imprinted on the bike. It’s simple but saves times with manuals hunting settings. What I’d love to see next is oil volumes printed and more torque settings.

Machined triple claps, a really solid robust set of plastics that are built to a super high tolerance. It’s apparent when installing or removing.

I love that it has a kick start and the electric, I’ve never actually used but it’s nice to know it’s there.

My only qualm would be the headlight design as it sticks out rather a lot making it vulnerable to impact…which is exactly what happened to mine. Oops.

Suspension

The obvious quality for Husky is their rising rate linkage system. It’s a progressive system, so the more force you put on the harder it gets. The advantage is it will absorb the small bumps at low speed and the larger high-speed impacts with considerable more ease. The downside is the linkage is a little vulnerable with your ground clearance, however the clearance is only 10mm less than the KTM and also a small guard can give it all the protection it needs for bottoming out on rocks and logs.

Fuel injection

As a transfer port injection bike the benefits are clear: besides huge improvements in fuel efficiency and exhaust emissions, the system also removes the need for pre-mixing fuel and re-jetting, meaning that with less effort, the engine always runs smoothly and crisply.

An example of how this can help would be high altitude riding where the air pressure changes, the bike will intelligently adjust the mapping using the barometric pressure sensor to ensure optimised performance.

The move to TPI was to meet new Euro 4 emissions but of course has all these benefits.

With these details I would definitely say the Husqvarna is a clear winner for me.

I’ve also completed the Valleys Xtreme hard enduro, arguably the toughest in the UK, and not once did I feel I was lacking umph on the TE 150i. It’s lightweight nimbleness had me finishing silver in my first ever hard enduro.

Final Verdit

So there it is. That’s my thought on the 2020 Husqvarna TE 150i. It’s an incredible bike for confidence building but also highly capable. Ideal for expert riders or people wanting to advance their skills, especially for people on the smaller side or women or anyone after a pocket rocket.

Guaranteed fun, but beware your friends will have bike envy!

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Metzeler MCE Six Days Extreme tyre review

Working out what tyres are best for you is a bit of a mine field. Knowing the difference on which black rubber tyre beats another black rubber tyre in terms of performance, traction, durability and gip, where do you start? Here is where I started and how I ended up riding the Metzeler MCE 6 Days Extreme.

The foundation

Know your legal requirements

First up, there are legal implications on tyres. If you’re wanting to do any green laning / byway ffr-road riding, they’ve got to be road legal or you’ll risk having the cops on your tail. You’ve then got to consider any events on your calendar, are you planning to race? Many events have specific tyre regulations, such as complying with ACU [Auto Cycle Union] or FIM regs. Otherwise you’ll hit the pre-race inspection and be rather disappointed. The Metzeler MCE 6 Days Extreme are race and road compliant.

What are you wanting to ride?

For me, I want something that could handle an array of terrains. I tend to mix things up, pushing myself in different conditions to broaden skills and keep things interested. This means a specific MX or trials tyre is immediately vetoed. I need something soft enough to give me decent grip but no so soft I’m burning through like a chain smoker. This terrain element also leads you to the question of tubes, tubeless or mousse. Having had three punctures in just two days riding, one being in the pouring rain, I’m a mouse girl.

Tube, Tubeless or Mouse

For mouse’s you’ll be running at a constant and non-adjustable tyre pressure, and in tricky terrain a softer tyre can really help you out for grip and balance. That means I wanted a softer compound tyre to give back some of the variability in pressure for more technical terrain. This effectively gives you a softer footprint. I want the world on a stick with a durable strong carcass that’s going to take a lot of punishment in very rocky technical accents that you might find in a granite quarry, such as Cown Leisure or Wern Du, but also something to help me out when I’ve facing gnarly rock steps and logs. It’s not unknown to tear a side wall in these gnarly conditions resulting in your precious mouse or tube being exposed. When doing tougher competitions such as Romaniacs I will be drilling out my mousses to effectively reduce the tyre pressure. The drill holes create air space through the mousse which enables additional compression and thus a softer ride.

One thing to bear in mind is that mousses are not legal on UK roads, you will not pass an MOT. Many cut out a valve from an old inner tube and leave it in the rim. Not fool proof but I’ve heard on the grape vine it does the trick. Disclaimer – you didn’t hear this from me.

Metzler MCE 6 Days Extreme

I’m currently at 64 hours riding on my MCE 6 Days Extreme in a broad mix of terrain.

Test Conditions

Terrain

• Rocks, slick wet, dry, lose, rounded, jagged
• Hill climbs on mud, slate, granite, rock
• Grass, long slippery, rutted, short
• Lose forest tracks, peaty mud, mulch woodland areas, deep ruts,
• Sandy wood chip, deep sand
• Water crossings, streams, huge puddles and fords
• Rooty forest ascents
• Hard enduro style rock climbs, steps, roots
• Wet and dry riding

Disciplines / Locations

• Wye Valley hard enduro
• Scottish ACU Lauder enduro round
• Cown Leisure Quarry
• Wern Du Quarry
• Wiltshire, Oxfordshire & Hampshire trail riding
• Ryedale & Beacons Rally Moto
• MX Flackwell Heath Park
• Wellington Country park sand trail riding
• Snowdonia trail riding Ride the Wild
• Andorra enduro
• North Spain Pascuett off road centre

Durability

I’ve punched out about 62 hours riding on the MCE Days Extreme tyres, riding in a real mix of locations, terrains, weather conditions and disciplines. My tyre walls are in really good condition, the box blocks are wearing down but they’re still all in tacked. No reason why I couldn’t do another intense rally or enduro weekend on them. A balance between rigidity and overall flexibility of the polyester provides excellent resistance to puncturing or damage, especially on rocky terrain. They are basically wearing nice and evenly, nothing has broken off, ripped, torn etc. Wear you would expect from the riding.

Traction

I really can’t say a word wrong about their grip. They’re profile track always bite and engage when put under pressure. In cornering they grab hold and hold a firm line, giving me confidence to braap out laying down the power. The only place I’ve felt I struggled for traction was in the Wye Valley in snotty terrain. Smooth rock faces encrusted with alge that never seeing the light of day. They would be wet and slick in the midst of a drought. But, I’m not sure many tyres would handle it, it’s a low-pressure super soft trials tyre territory so again, nothing bad to say on the MCE 6 Days Extreme there.

I really feel like these tyres have given me the extra confidence in my connection to the ground, the feel, grip and corning stability, helping push my riding faster and harder.

Performance

If you’re like me, riding a mix of topography, you’ll need your motorcycle to adapt to different terrains, and so versatility in the tyres is vital. Without getting into the tech, the MCE 6 Days Extreme use a casing with Polyester material with high strength and X-Ply construction…techy. It results in greater structural characteristics and an overall upgrading of stiffness. The benefit is an increase of shock absorbing properties and structural stability. It’s still all a bit techy, but it ultimately means more predictable feedback from the tyre, enhancing control in all conditions.

Wet

When it comes to grip, it’s important to think about the tyre compounds, the MCE 6 Days Extreme uses a high-performance Carbon Black to reinforce the structure of the knobs. It basically means a more stable tread, especially at high temperatures, which gives better accuracy and trajectory, resulting in better grip both on dry and slippery surfaces.

Road

This is the area where my experience is the least effective to review. I’ve only done a few odd bits on tarmac linking byways and I always hate it. The vibration on a 200 2-stroke braaping down the road means I just hold on and get back off-road as swiftly as possible. I’ve never felt a lack of traction or noticed any high wear from the hard ground. No dramas on the road.

Sand

Ultimately for sand you’re really after a big paddle sand tyre, but these aren’t going to be road legal and will be useless in other conditions. It really is about finding the best balance of tyre performance for the conditions you ride. I hit some deep sand with the MCE 6 Days Extreme and it was dreamy. They dug in and powered me through, I felt as must traction as you can hope for in deep sand, felt impressive directional control, but again as much as you can hope for in sand without a sand tyre. Winner to me.

Cleaning

With great spacing in the chunky treat the 6 Days Extreme are ace at self-cleaning. Yes in mega Welsh bogs you’re going to get a lots of mud everywhere, but give them a spin up and they quickly clean out, regaining your traction and grip.

Highlights

1. A great balance of performance and durability
2. DOT Approved, road legal and ACU compliant
3. The 6 Days Extreme has won 26 World Enduro Championships since their debut

Features

• Tube type (TT), mouse compatible
• Knob distribution and geometry designed to offer outstanding grip and traction with high resistance both in dry and wet conditions, from soft/loose terrains to hard
• High Resistance Polyester carcass-material with X-ply construction for superior structural characteristics and excellent puncture resistance
• OEM fitment on KTM 450/525 EXC models
• The ultimate off-road tire developed with World Champion factory enduro riders for the most extreme conditions
• Both front and rear tires are DOT approved; M- and R-speed rated

Overall Rating

I highly rate the Metzeler MCE 6 Days Extreme. They’re a tyre that offers feeling, grip and stability, brilliant braking authority and a strong durable tyre to last across a variety of terrain.

If you’re new to my page – it’s more than just dirt bike riding, Harley’s and racing, I’m on a mission to prove that nothing is impossible if you want it bad enough. See more about my story plus read about my life changing accident, which started it all.

You can find me Vanessa, The Girl On A Bike over on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube, and www.thegirlonabike.com.

Live stream your tuition as you ride

You’re set on nailing this new skill. You’ve had the full download step-by-step on what to do from your buddy and you’re ready to try it again. There are at least 4 different things you need to seriously focus on to get it right. Body forwards, arms straight, elbows up, feather the clutch, look up, momentum. They’ve run you through it and you’re ready…

But then as you pull away it happens. The mind goes poof and before you’re even lined up your racking the mind for what to remember. As you’re riding in you’ve forgotten the arm position, reverting to your classic way. You can hear your buddy faintly in the background shouting reminders, but nothing can be deciphered over the sound of your heart racing and engine revving. You don’t make it.

Now let’s try this again with the Cardo training system in play. You’ve had the full download tuition and you’re pulling away. But you’re not pulling away from the tuition, only physically, because installed in your helmet is the Cardo intercom allowing your buddy to continue to guide you through with up to a mile range. As you ride on you can hear their gentle reminders, elbows up, more gas, and suddenly your mind is able to process all the instructions and before you know it….you’ve made it up. The small tweaks from their observations enable you to focus and get all the pieces of the puzzle together.

The fact of the story is that the human mind is incredible but when given a list of steps to follow while the heart is racing stretching your skills…it simply struggles to retain it.

This is where intercom connections can be incredibly useful for accelerating the progression. With live as you go input from your buddy or coach you can refine and improve as you go. And even better you don’t have to stop and regroup to get more tips. The tips are like a live stream in your headset. Sounds intense? No, it’s fantastic and you can always shut the volume down and crank up your music if you have too much.

I’ve been out training at Pascuet Off Road Centre with Jordi Pascuet and Jarvis Signature Tours and having the intercoms has certainly accelerated my learning. It simply facilitates an easy tutorial environment. If you’re both riding simply use the normal helmet mounts, but if you have a buddy or coach on the ground off the bike, the training headset rocks. No need for them to stand in a helmet just to chat.

Use link HERE for 20% off Cardo https://cardosystems.rfrl.co/5gxzq

Live stream your tuition with Cardo. For Cardo Systems discount code use link HERE for 10-25% off Cardo products https://cardosystems.rfrl.co/5gxzq and use code “TGOAB” You can also see my code over on Wethrift

If you’re new to my page – it’s more than just dirt bike riding, Harley’s and racing, I’m on a mission to prove that nothing is impossible if you want it bad enough. See more about my story plus read about my life changing accident, which started it all.

You can find me Vanessa, The Girl On A Bike over on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube, and www.thegirlonabike.com.

How to vinyl wrap motorcycles, fuel tanks and fairings

DIY ‘Do It Yourself’ – for the Bike

The Complete Guide to Wrapping

I would encourage everyone to give it a go, and I hope the below helps arm you with all the information you need on how to vinyl wrap your motorcycle or car successfully. For more information on the pros, cons and tips for wrapping please see my Complete Guide to Vinyl Wrapping article.

Please hit follow on Instagram @thegirlonabike and Facebook

Tools Needed

• 3M wrap [don’t buy a cheaper alternative]
• 3M primer [for complex areas]
• Lint-free cloth
• Isopropyl alcohol
• Felt pad [or soft flat edged item roughly credit card sized]
• Stanley knife blade
• Heat gun or decent hair dryer
• Large picture frame [for wrapping tanks]

I recommend Motos.pl for buying wrap. It’s a great fast service and the cheapest sources of original 3m vinyl wrap.

Why only 3m?

From my experience, 3M is the leader in the high-performance film.  As a product developed with 3M’s vast experience; it’s really like the Ferrari of wraps.  No other product comes near.

• It comes ready to use right out of the box as a self-adhesive vinyl
• It handles easily, with a perfect balance between flex and rigidity
• It’s semi-permeable allowing to escape, preventing and eliminating bubbles
• It is a pressure-activated adhesive, which enables you to apply and reposition until you have the perfect finish.

Yes, there are cheaper competitor brands out there, but ultimately, wrapping is a tricky game so why make it harder with inferior materials. Buy the best and make life easier for yourself.

The Recipe

1. Pick your wrap

The world is pretty much your oyster here, these wraps come in literally all colours and patterns, whether it’s a matte look, gloss or even carbon fibre effect you’re after. If you can imagine it, you can probably find it. I’d recommend taking a look at the colours available on the 3M website to select your finish and colour.

You can then buy it on eBay, Amazon or search Google to look for the cheapest source. As long as you’re careful to ensure its genuine 3M branded wrap, you can go for the cheapest outlet.

I always go for 3M 1080 wrap vinyl series 

2. Dismantle and clean

With a motorcycle [or car] you need to ensure you give yourself the easiest surface possible to wrap. I’d, therefore, recommend removing any panels you can so you can twist, turn and work around the part while wrapping. This includes tanks, fairings, battery covers, fenders etc.
Once apart, it’s time to clean. This is vital as any dirt, dust or oil will impede the vinyl’s ability to stick. I recommend a hot soapy wash to clean the worst; Fairy Liquid can be a good one for busting grease. Make sure you allow it plenty of time to fully dry!
You then want to use isopropyl alcohol to ensure the surface is 100% clean and grease free. For this make sure you use a lint free cloth to leave a pristine surface.
Also, while the wrap does cover your paintwork up, it does show things through as it will follow all contours. My general rule – if you can feel it, it will likely show up. Therefore, if you have any scratches, dents or rust, you will want to treat them first to ensure a smooth surface.
Once clean, be careful to keep your grubby fingers off the surface.
Cleaning needs:

• Remove parts from bike
• Give a hot soapy wash
• Treat any dents, rust and contours
• Use lint free cloth and isopropyl alcohol

3. Prepare your working area

You want to be in an area with decent lighting and minimal air flow as wind could catch your wrap and cause creases, and also blow dust into the air sticking to the adhesive. I’ve heard a lot of professionals say you can’t wrap outside, I personally disagree. I’ve wrapped my Mercedes-Benz Viano twice [4 years apart] outside and both times saw a perfect finish. You want it to be dry, dust and wind free but I say outside is okay if it’s a mid-range temperature. <insert Mercedes shot>

Having said that, and given that removable motorcycle parts are mostly small in size; I would recommend doing the bike inside. My ideal is on a table where you’re able to move around the table instead of having to spin the object, such as a tank constantly.

Depending on your work surface you might want to put some protection down to both protect your table from sharp corners of the fender and also protect the paintwork from the hard surface. I just used some soft packaging – make sure it won’t leave bits on your wrap.

Finally, think about items you can use to support the item being wrapped while wrapping. A friend is the easiest option but if you’re wrapping solo anything from a large cooking bowl to support a fender can be a great aid leaving you with two hands to manipulate the wrap.

Area specs:

• Decent lighting
• Minimal air flow
• Dust free environment
• Surface / table you can move around
• Something to prop the item on
• Within reach of electrics for heat gun

You’re now ready to get wrapping!

4. Wrapping

Start by roughly cutting a section of wrap slightly larger than the item being wrapped. Always go larger than the area being wrapped to allow a safety net and to give an area to touch when applying and manipulating on it. Give the surface a final check to make sure it’s clean.

Remove the backing and apply the vinyl to the flattest part of the panel first to create a baseline. You’re then going to use your felt pad to work the wrap ongoing from side to side slowly. At this stage, you want to keep the vinyl as level as possible.

Once, you’ve done the easier flat areas you should stretch the vinyl without heat over the whole area. Don’t be tempted to work the film into the more complicated areas yet; this will come gradually.

Once the wrap is where you want it, you need to apply firm pressure with your felt pad as it’s a pressure-activated adhesive. You’ll do this gradually as you go.

5. Heat manipulation

Once you’ve worked in the wrap to a basic level, you’re going to need to start using some heat. The beauty of 3M wrap is its ability to stretch to up to 40 percent so it can be molded around curves and edges.

Here’s the magic, heat allows it to stretch but then heat also allows it to shrink back to its original form due to thermal material memory! It’s truly witchcraft! Whatever it is, it’s exactly what you need for wrapping something as tricky as a motorcycle as I can guarantee you won’t stretch it perfectly first time. It means you can heat stretch, apply pressure, remove, heat shrink, heat stretch, and apply… over and over. It’s an incredibly forgiving material.

When stretching the vinyl be careful to always pull outwards from the already applied area using a large section to spread the tension. This is to ensure a nice even stretch. This also applies when you use extra heat to soften and stretch the vinyl, apply heat to a larger area than you need as this should help to avoid you distorting the material.

You’ll find that you won’t get the required stretch in one, you’ll likely need to stretch and apply a small section, and then heat shrinks it, before then stretching again for the next small section. You do want to be careful not to demand too much stretch and shrink from the material, but you’ll find it exciting to do this multiple times. Plus, because modern adhesive reaches its most sticky state after 24 hours, it makes the wrap repositionable over and over [within limits].

The Frame Trick

A tip for wrapping a fuel tank is to use a large picture frame. Here you will stick the edge of the wrap to the frame, so it’s held flat across the frame. You can then have one person holding the frame while the other heats up the whole wrap surface. Once warm and supple, you can apply even tension to the full parameter of the frame and work the wrap down onto the tank. This will only work for the first section, but it massively helps you get started without too much crumpling around the edges.

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Heating and shrinking:

• Heating the wrap will allow a material stretch up to 40 percent before distorting
• Heating also allows the wrap to shrink back to its original form via material memory
• If you crease or crumple the wrap, simply pull it apart, and heat will see it return to its original form
• Heat with a hot hair dryer or gentle heat gun–if it burns your fingers it will burn your wrap – turn the temperature down or move further away

6. Eliminating bubbles and creases

If you find out you have a bubble or crease, don’t panic. As long as you’ve not applied pressure to the pressure-activated adhesive, you’ll be able to pull the wrap and apply a little heat to shrink the surface back to its former state and try again. If you’ve applied pressure, you can sometimes gently pull the wrap back but be careful, if you’re pulling and it’s proving difficult you might just have to accept a small crease. The tip here is; don’t apply pressure on a crease.

Bubbles are easier to deal with if you can’t pull back. The first option is to give it five minutes; the air permeable properties might allow it to dissipate out with time. If this doesn’t work, use a pin or knife point to make a small puncture, then apply a little heat and push the air out.

Elimination

• Pull back the wrap and try again, using heat to return wrap to original from
• Pin prick bubbles and gently heat while pushing the air out

7. Wrap around the edge / underside

Once you’ve fully wrapped the visible surface, you want to tidy off the underside. Always try to wrap around into the non-visible area, for example, the underside of the fender. With these areas, it’s important you get a nice stick, but it really doesn’t matter how rough it looks as no one can see it.

I recommend using a 3M primer to give the wrap little extra support in sticking. Simply using a small brush to apply it around the edge and give it around 90 seconds to cure before continuing.

Use heat to ensure the wrap is nice and supple and then gently pull the wrap around the underside in sections.

8. Trim edges

At this point, things should be starting to look pretty awesome. It’s time to get a very sharp knife to trim. I prefer to use a Stanley knife blade as it’s really small and easy to use around the contours. I recommend leaving a minimum of 15mm overlap around the underside.

If there is no underside, such as on a fairing, simply cut along the edge line of the item.

Be careful not to scratch your bike when cutting, I always try to cut away from the surface and then push the final bit of wrap down smooth.

9. Heat seal

Finally, you need to overwrite the wraps memory of being flat and un-stretched. Here you want to heat to 80-90ºC. I tend to crank my heat gun up high and play it by guesswork, but if you’ve got the gadget, you can use an infra-red temperature gauge to be sure that you have reached this temperature. I’ve not had problems without it, but I’m sure a professional would tell you otherwise.

Make sure you get both the wrap and substrate temperature gradually as anything less will see the vinyl retain its memory resulting in it popping out of recesses and curves – maybe not immediately but in time. It’s vital this is carefully done on all stretched areas and recesses but be careful not to overheat as that will damage the wrap.

10. Step back and enjoy your new look

Bonus: How to removing 3m vinyl wrap

Should you wish to remove the wrap, simply apply a little heat and gently pull the wrap away. It’s an easy job but take it steady. Once off you’ll need to use an adhesive cleaner or alcohol to clean off the remaining glue.

Time Required

How long is a piece of string? This will really come down to experience. My first tank on the Street Bob took 5.5 hours but it’s probably one of the hardest tank shapes to do due to its fish tank shape – it was also the first tank I’ve done. The Forty-Eight Sportster only took 3 hours in comparison. A fender would be about 45 minutes while a battery covers 30.

I recommend making sure you start at a time when you know you have a decent chunk of time [including light] so not to rush or feel pressured. I would also recommend not trying to do it all in one sitting as it is mentally rather tiring.

Ease of Completion

Honest answer. It’s tricky. It takes patience and a steady hand. But! It is achievable even without being a professional. The pros will tell you it’s not a home job, but I’m proof it can be.

Crowd Reaction

Mega! The bragging right of being able to say you wrapped it yourself is awesome. If you pick the right colour, the light will pop like no paintwork and draw attention. Wrapping, and the ability to simply change colour when you fancy it means you can trick people with your new ride [which is simply a new wrap].

People are genuinely fascinated by the wrap finish.

£££

For a motorcycle like a Sportster or DYNA if you buy 3 metres x 1.5 metres of wrap you’ll have more than enough [just in case you have to restart a piece]. Alcohol will be a few quid, along with a foam pad. As you’re doing it yourself, it’s a labour of love, so time is all it’ll cost.

I estimate wrapping your bike to cost about £120 / €150 / $170

Highlights

1. New look for a fraction of the cost
2. Satisfaction of doing it yourself
3. Totally achievable as an amateur

Tips From Experience

• Have a friend help, 4 hands make it a lot easier than 2
• Start with an easier item with the least amount of contour, leave the tank to last!
• Avoid wrapping in cold weather
• Leave plenty of time – don’t try and do it in a rush
• Don’t start if you’re tired, you need patience and energy
• Have some snacks and a kettle for tea/coffee nearby to keep you fuelled
• If the heat gun burns your fingers it will burn the wrap
• Be prepared to write off some wrap and start again if it goes wrong

Overall Rating

Wrapping gives your ride a totally new looks for a fraction of the cost and also protects your paintwork. It does take time and patience, but it’s so worth it for the finish and bragging rights.

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Remember, I’m an account director in marketing…not a mechanic or engineer…so if

I can do it. You can do it!

Give it a go and give me a shout if you have any questions.

If you’re new to my page – it’s more than just dirt bike riding and racing, I’m on a mission to prove that nothing is impossible if you want it bad enough. See more about my story plus read about my life changing accident, which started it all.

You can find me Vanessa, The Girl On A Bike over on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube, and www.thegirlonabike.com.

When an accident turned my life inside out, I found salvation in Harley-Davidson, and then came the start of The Girl On A Bike

My addiction to Harley-Davidson emerged following a few challenging twists in the road of life. It all started on our honeymoon, when we hired two Harley-Davidson motorcycles in Texas, exploring 1,000 miles around Route 66, Cadillac Ranch, Amarillo and the breathtaking scenery of the Palo Duro Canyon. It was an amazing adventure [read more on how we did Route 66 in 5 days here].

Back home, our lives were full of excitement; we lived for sport and the great outdoors. There was this constant underlying thirst for adrenaline. With a full-time job, I found my ways to shape life around these needs. Weekdays entailed a 16-mile daily cycling commute, lunchtime gym sessions and summer evening wakeboard sessions. Weekends were filled with road trips, kite surfing, mountain biking and climbing.

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  The Girl On A Bike Accident 4
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  The Girl On A Bike sports snowboarding
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  The Girl On A Bike sports kite surfing 3

Life-changed

But things took a life-changing turn in March 2014 when, while cycling, I was hit by a car that jumped a red light. In that moment, life as I knew it was gone [more on the accident here]. As I write this nearly five years on, it’s three weeks since my sixth surgery, but I’m confident it’ll be the last operation. We’ve had to make a lot of changes in our lives following the injuries, and there have been ups and downs between surgeries. No sports, no adrenaline, my social life vanished, and I was unable to do my cycling commute. I decided to get a motorcycle to skip the traffic and save money, and this was the first catalyst to Harley ownership.

Later, my husband Alex was posted by the Royal Air Force to Afghanistan, which devastatingly was just one week prior to my full shoulder reconstruction surgery. On his return, for a belated wedding anniversary, I organised two Harleys for the afternoon – and that was it. It was immediately apparent that this thumping V-Twin was the key to a world of enjoyment that required minimal physical demand, something that would bring adventure to our worlds with my injuries.

Within weeks we were Harley owners and the adventures unfolded. In the three and a half years since, around my surgeries and rehabilitation, we’ve done 15,000 miles, countless weekend trips, wild camping, explored six National Parks, enjoyed sunrise rides over London’s Tower Bridge, and undertaken a 2,700-mile Alpine adventure [see more]. We have had a blast on two wheels.

Thug

I genuinely can’t begin to imagine how I would have made it through the last few years without ‘Thug’, my 2015 Dyna Street Bob. She’s given me a sense of adventure that went missing after the accident. I’ve also started The Girl On A Bike an Instagram blog, @TheGirlOnABike. While bed-bound following one of my surgeries, I decided that there must be other people out there facing similar struggles; maybe I could reach them through social media? I never imagined that so many people would find hope and encouragement in my story. There have been days when I didn’t want to get out of bed, but my followers helped me find strength, and there have been many days where my followers were struggling and my story has helped them.

Recovery

When people say ‘recovery’, you typically think of returning to how you were before the accident. But there is no going back. You do not merely recover, you reinvent yourself. You learn so much as you fight through; it’s an irreversible journey. While my journey over the past five years has been brutal, I feel somehow lucky. I have friends now I would never have met, I have a Harley-Davidson I would never have bought, I have realised the importance of a work-life balance, I’ve become even closer to my husband and soulmate, and I have a fire in my soul only this type of recovery could light.

Make sure you’re following me The Girl On A Bike on Instagram and Facebook to hear more about my ongoing journey. 

As published in HOG

If you’re new to my page – it’s more than just dirt bike riding, Harley’s and racing, I’m on a mission to prove that nothing is impossible if you want it bad enough. See more about my story plus read about my life changing accident, which started it all.

You can find me Vanessa, The Girl On A Bike over on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube, and www.thegirlonabike.com.

HJC RPHA 70 full face motorbike helmet review

How it started

As the only legally required piece of motorcycle safety equipment it’s no surprise that your helmet is the the single most important piece of safety equipment you’ll wear. If an accident happens your helmet will have one moment to potentially save your life, and according to research helmets are 37% effective at saving lives. A recent Devitt study shows 96% of bikers would still wear a helmet even if the compulsory law changed. So, given the importance, let’s help you decide if the HJC RPHA 70 full face motorbike helmet is the protection for you as it’s not just about safety.

The South Korean helmet maker, HJC, has been producing motorcycle helmets for about 45 years now, and are known for providing decent quality, affordable crash helmets.

So how to I rate the HJC RPHA 70 helmet?

Safety

The outer shell is a combination of carbon fibre and fiberglass, which undoubtedly contributes to the light weight design of the HJC RPHA 70. HJC have worked hard to create their Premium Integrated Matrix plus or PIM for short, which is designed to offer good impact resistance while being light weight. A great combination

However, from a safety standpoint, I have no way to actually measure helmet impact resistance so, I rely on the DOT and ECE accreditation for industry standards. This HJC RPHA 70 full face motorbike helmet has the following ratings and features:

• SHARP 3 Star safety rated
• EQRS (emergency quick release) cheek pads
• ACU gold sticker for track riding
• Double-d-ring fasteners strap

Of course, impact resistance is only one part of the safety equation when it comes to an effective crash helmet.

When the RPHA 70 was SHARP tested for energy absorption it was given a 3-star safety rating out of 5. Not the best, however, it’s worth remembering that the most important thing with any helmet is to get one that fits right – a SHARP one-star helmet that fits perfectly will protect you better than a five star helmet that’s a poor fit.

Some other useful safety features includes the emergency quick removal cheek pads (EQRS) – designed to help removing the helmet in an emergency, and the double-d ring fasteners – it might be an old fashioned way to fasten a helmet but they’re super easy once you get the hang of them – and safe if you adjust them correctly.

Look & Styling

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  The Girl On A Bike HJC RPHA 70 motorbike full face helmet white back
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  The Girl On A Bike HJC RPHA 70 motorbike full face helmet white
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  The Girl On A Bike HJC RPHA 70 motorbike full face helmet white sunshield sunglasses

I always find helmets give me a massive looking head, but HJC have done a superb job at creating a chunky but purposeful look combined with an overall shape that is designed to trick the eye into thinking it’s smaller. My head, at last, doesn’t look overwhelmingly large. That’s a huge win for me. The lines and vents all sit comfortably in the helmet and make for a slightly aggressive but slick look.

On top of the wide selection of colours and graphics HJC have created, as with most lids, you can buy a range of different visors to style out our look too with the HJC RPHA 70 full face motorbike helmet.

Ride Comfort

While it looks good, which is important, it’s also about how it functions. The external design works in reducing buffeting and improving stability, while the shape also creates a pressure differential that’ll help draw air through the helmet for ventilation keeping your head cool. And for anyone who rides you’ll know how important ventilation is, both for hot summer days but also for demisting.

I must add that the light weight design makes long distance riding a doddle. No heavy achy necks from the head weight. It’s a super comfortable, balanced and light weight helmet.

The bit I probably love the most about it is the built-in visor. The hassle of having to put sunglasses on and off, or worse deciding before you pull away if you want sunglass on or off is something totally avoided with the HJC RPHA 70 full face motorbike helmet. A small easily located slider operates an integrated sun-shield that is outstanding for optical quality and coverage of the eye. Enter a dark tunnel or dappled forest area, turn a corner into bright sunlight and you can simply flip the shades up or down without any risk to your riding control.

When it comes to road noise, as a light helmet you could anticipate a compromise, however the RPHA 70 is exceptionally quiet. The noise is perfectly manageable on long journeys without ear protection, however I do tend to wear my moulded filter ear plugs – mainly because my Harley gets a little fatiguing in volume but mostly to simply protect my hearing with all the road miles. With or without ear protection you’ll be pleased by the quiet ride.

One final item worth mentioning is the ‘cracked open’ position of the main visor. This simply enables you to have the visor slightly open while maintaining full protection to the face. An ace feature for defogging and saving the need for breath holding at traffic lights.

Limitations

• SHARP testing only 3 of 5
• The latest model’s range of visor colours no long includes the gorgeous turquoise blue I love

HJC RPHA 70 full face motorbike helmet statistics

• Composite-fibre shell (carbon, aramid & fibreglass)
• Full carbon version also available
• SHARP 3 Star safety rated
• Drop down sun visor
• EQRS (emergency quick release)
• Double-D ring fastener
• Anti-fog insert included
• Nose guard and a removable chin curtain
• Wicking, anti-bac interior
• Removable and washable snap and tab internal padding
• Glasses groove
• Sizes XXS-XXL
• 5 year warranty
• Weighing in at 3 pounds, 3.6 ounces
• Colours: Various solids, graphics, and patterns

HJC motorcycle helmets available via HJC RPHA 70

£££

Expect to pay around £200 for plain with prices increasing for graphics.

Highlights

1. Well balanced, light weight and well ventilated
2. Fantastic integrated sun-shield
3. Exceptionally low wind and road noise

Overall Rating

How much is your head worth? I highly rate my RPHA 70 full face motorbike helmet, it’s comfortable, offers great ventilation and safety combined with a slick looking design and inbuilt sunglasses. I love mine and would most certainly recommend.

If you’re new to my page – it’s more than just dirt bike riding, Harley’s and racing, I’m on a mission to prove that nothing is impossible if you want it bad enough. See more about my story plus read about my life changing accident, which started it all.

You can find me Vanessa, The Girl On A Bike over on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube, and www.thegirlonabike.com.